DAY 12 - GRANADA
Our second day out was to Granada, 163 km South East of Cordoba. This involved an early start bus ride of nearly 3 hours on the outbound journey, long, but we knew that Granada and the Alhambra was not a place to miss.
The longer distance buses are very modern and comfortable and we enjoyed the ride though the countryside.
We had read that getting into the Alhambra was difficult because of the shear volume of people trying to get in and they limit the number who can get in each day and the limit is 6000. There are three possible solutions to this problem. You buy tickets ahead. The problem with that is that you have to do this at least a month before your visit and not realising this until too late as we didn't have the month. A very few tickets are sold on the day, about 1000. To get these you need to be there around 5.00 a.m. to join the queue. Not a solution for us as we weren't going to arrive that early. The third solution is to join a tour and that's what we did and the majority do. There are many tours in many languages available and the tour guide gets the tickets ahead of time. You just turn up at the appointed time and join your group of about 20 people. It was all very well organized and the tour gives a start time and a time to get into the more important buildings. This controls the crowds very well.
We arrived in Granada around noon and our tour time was 4.30 p.m. so we had plenty of time to get some lunch and visit the Capilla Real, the large cathedral in the centre of the city.
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| The Capilla Real |
The Alhambra is a little way away from the city centre and this involves a longish walk uphill. You start the climb through the lower entrance gate passing the inevitable souvenir shops.
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| The lower entrance gate |
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| The path on the way up |
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| A welcome seat, you can see the slope of the path |
Having reached the top you look for your tour guide. The main entrance is a busy place with everybody looking for their tour guides. However, it was all very efficient and we found our group quite easily. Each person in the group is given an ear piece and receiver. This means that you don't have to be right up with the guide and you can easily hear what he is saying wherever he is. This is important because your group gets mingled in with other groups.
The Alhambra ( the red castle) is part palace, part fort, part World Heritage site, part lesson in medieval architecture and is a historic monument probably never to be surpassed. the first palace was built in the 11th century and in the 13th and 14th century the Nasrid emirs turned it into a fortress-palace complex. The Nasrid dynasty was the last Arab Muslim dynasty in Spain in the 13th to 15th century. After the Christian reconquest of Spain, the mosque was replaced by a church.
There are two principal areas to visit, the palace complex and the Palacious Nazaries in the Alhambra and the Generalife, which our guide explained was not an insurance company. He was very good as a guide and he spoke very good English.
Our time to enter the Palace was 6.00 p.m and he stressed that we must be there on the dot as the groups are let in in 30 minute intervals and you can't be late.
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| Tour groups looking for guides |
We started out in the Generalife, which is a peaceful arrangement of pathways, patios, pools, fountains, tall trees and flowers. The complex consists of the Patio de la Acequia (Court of the
Water Channel or Water-Garden Courtyard), which has a long pool framed
by flowerbeds, fountains, colonnades and pavilions, and the Jardím de la Sultana (Sultana's Garden or Courtyard of the Cypress). It was designed as a place for relaxation for the occupants of the Alhambra.
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| The view from the Generalife over Granada |
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| The view of the Alhambra from the Generalife |
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| One of the many pools |
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| The Salon de Embadajores (Ambassadors) |
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| An area where concerts are held |
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| The gardens were really lovely |
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| You enter the Alhambra across a bridge and pass by the remains on an old aqua duct that brought water in from the hills |
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| The foundations of the old merina (market) |
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| The Convento de San Francisco - now the Parador Granada, an up-market hotel |
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| The entrance to the Parador Granada |
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| The Iglesia de Santa Maria de la Alhambra, which sits on the site of the palace mosque and built between 1581 and 1618 |
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| The Palacio de Carlos V. The
design is monotonous and massive, much like many ministerial
buildings one sees throughout the world. It is mainly distinguished by
its circular inner courtyard, in the majestic Roman tradition. The
construction ended up taking no less than 110 years, twice that of
Notre Dame Cathedral! The man who was to be the occupant of the house,
Charles, died when the work was still "only" in its thirtieth year. |
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The square building with a round hole in the middle
We made our way to the the centre piece of the Alhambra - the Palcios Nazaries, on time for our 6.00 p.m. entry. There are basically three palaces in the complex. The Mexuar, the Palacio de Comares and the Palacio de los Leones (Lions),
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| The first building you enter is the Mexuar. This is a large room where the emir met with the people |
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| The walls are covered with the repetition of the phrase, in arabic " Everything that you own comes from God" thousands and thousands of times |
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| The fantastic ceiling |
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The Courtyard of the Lions.
Its construction started in the second period of Carlos's reign, between 1362 and 1391 AD. The Courtyard is oblong surrounded by a low gallery supported on 124 white marble
columns. In the centre of the courtyard is the celebrated Fountain of Lions, a
magnificent alabaster basin supported by the figures of twelve lions in
white marble. The fountain was itself under reconstruction.
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| A wider view of the courtyard |
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| A detail of the ceiling of the roof around the courtyard |
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| A view over Granada from a palace window |
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| Another fantastic ceiling |
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| This is the roof of the baths in this palace |
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| One of the rooms built by Carlos V and later used by the author Washington Irving. He was an American short story writer, essayist, biographer, historian, and diplomat of the early 19th century. He wrote the Tales of the Alhambra. |
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| A view from the window down to the Patio de la Lindaraja |
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| A plaque commemorating Washington Irving. He was appointed as a Minister to Spain in 1842. |
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| The Patio de la Lindaraja |
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| This window was the one we looked down from into the patio |
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| Our tall guide and our group at the end of the tour |
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We now had to make some haste to catch a taxi to get back to the bus station for our bus to Cordoba, the last of the day. The return journey was quite a bit longer than the morning ride. It took a completely different route through a series of small towns and was very interesting.
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